Winter is finally over, and the grass is starting to grow like crazy. You roll your mower out of the warehouse, garage, or barn – ready to give the starter cord a few pulls and get to work, right? Wait, hold on.
A mower that has been “hibernating” in storage for months is like us being woken up by an alarm clock in the morning – the brain is still foggy, and the body doesn’t move the way it should. If you yank the starter cord right away, the worst case is it won’t start; the worst case is you damage the engine. As dealers and farmers who work with mowers every day, you already know: The right wake‑up procedure can add years to your machine’s life.
Here’s a no‑nonsense “spring wake‑up” guide you’ll want to keep handy.
Step 1: Visual inspection – don’t let little animals move in
First thing – don’t rush to start it. Walk around the machine and look carefully:
- Any mouse nests or bird nests? This is the most overlooked problem. Mice love to build nests under the engine cover, inside the air filter, or even in the exhaust pipe during winter. Open the cover, check the air filter and exhaust opening. If you find anything, put on gloves and clean it out.
- Any rust or oil leaks? Check the deck, blade, wheel axles for obvious rust. If you see oil stains on the ground, the seals may have dried out – need a closer look.
- Tire pressure ok? After months of storage, tires naturally lose air. Press them with your hand or use a gauge, and inflate to the recommended pressure.
Step 2: Fluids – out with the old, in with the new
After a whole winter in storage, both engine oil and fuel can change.
Engine oil: Pull out the dipstick and check the color and thickness. If it looks black, thick, or has metal particles, change it immediately. Even if you changed the oil just before storage, it’s still a good idea to replace it – condensation can get in over time. After adding fresh oil, remember to take the old oil to a recycling point – don’t just dump it.
Fuel: This is where most problems start. If you used regular gasoline last fall and didn’t add a fuel stabilizer, that fuel has probably gone bad. Old gas turns gummy and clogs the carburetor. Safest approach: Drain the old gasoline and add fresh, high‑quality fuel. If your machine sits for long periods, consider using fuel with a stabilizer from now on.
Step 3: Clean the air filter and spark plug
Air filter: After months of storage, the filter is definitely dusty. Remove it. For foam filters, wash with warm soapy water, let it dry, then put a few drops of engine oil on it and squeeze it back in. For paper filters, blow compressed air from the inside out; replace it if it looks really dirty.
Spark plug: Unscrew the plug and inspect it. The electrode tip should be light brown or grey. If it’s black, carbon‑covered, or the electrode is burned, replace it with a new one of the same model. One more tip: when installing the new plug, don’t over‑tighten. Screw it in by hand, then give it about a quarter turn with a wrench.
Step 4: Blade check – don’t play games with your toes
The blade is your mower’s most important tool. After storage, it may be dull, nicked, or unbalanced.
Tip the mower on its side (with the air filter side up to prevent oil from spilling where it shouldn’t). Check the blade for bends, cracks, or heavy wear. Quick test: wedge a piece of wood to hold the blade, then try to turn the center bolt with a wrench – it should be tight. If the blade wiggles, tighten it immediately or replace it. And don’t forget: a dull blade tears grass, leaving it white and ragged, and it wastes a lot of fuel.
Step 5: First start – take it easy
After all those checks, you’re finally ready to start. But don’t go straight to full throttle.
- Turn on the fuel valve (if your mower has one).
- Move the throttle lever to “choke” or “start” position.
- When the engine is cold, pull the starter cord 3‑4 times (or press the primer bulb a few times) to help fuel reach the carburetor.
- Pull the cord smoothly – don’t yank it all the way to the end. Pull gently until you feel resistance, then give it a quick, full pull.
- Once it starts, let it idle for 2‑3 minutes so the oil can circulate and the engine warms up. Listen for any strange noises, and check for leaks.
Last step: Test‑cut a small patch
After the engine is warm, try mowing a small, inconspicuous area. Watch for:
- Is the cut height even?
- Does the grass discharge smoothly?
- Any unusual vibration?
If you feel vibration, it’s usually an unbalanced blade or something stuck in the deck. If discharge is poor, check the chute and the underside of the deck for blockages.
To sum it up: Spending half an hour doing a full check before the first start of the season is far better than spending hours on repairs later. This routine isn’t just about getting the engine to fire – it’s about your safety, your efficiency, and the life of your machine.
The way you treat your mower is exactly how long it will serve you. Here’s to a smooth, productive mowing season!
